好利来 丝袜

查看原文

Raw fish is sizzling hot right now.

Los Angeles has brand new bars devoted to an Italian style of raw fish， called crudo. President Obama kicked off his visit to Asia last month noshing nigiri at Jiro's famous sushi bar. And back in December， The New York Times named Sushi Nakawaza as its top restaurant of the year.

But why do so many of us find utter bliss in eating raw sea creatures but aren't so inclined to chow down on uncooked birds， cows or pigs?

A big part of it is gravity — or the effective lack of it in the ocean， says biophysicist Ole Mouritsen， author of Sushi: Food for the Eye， the Body and the Soul.

"Fish are so soft. You can stick your finger through their muscles，" he says. "Try doing that with a chicken or cow. Fish muscle is very different than that in land animals."

Why? Because fish can afford to be lazier than terrestrial animals. Fish essentially float all the time. So their muscles don't work constantly to fight gravity.

"Fish don't have to support their body weight，" Mouritsen says， "so their muscle fibers are shorter and less tough than those in land animals." The same goes for the connective tissue holding the muscle fibers together: It's delicate and weak.

The result? Fish has a silky， smooth texture when it's raw， and a flaky， light texture when it's cooked.

By contrast， "Land animals — like ourselves — are always working to keep themselves upright and keep their shape，" Mouritsen says， so our muscle fibers are thicker， tougher and firmer.

The result is a ropy， chewy — and less appetizing — texture when the meat is raw. Cooking softens the connective tissue in meat and improves its texture (it also makes it juicy and flavorful).

In general， the more a muscle works， the tougher， more iNews，双语新闻，双语，it gets， Mouritsen writes in his book. This idea explains why the belly of the tuna， known as otoro， is exceptionally soft: The belly of the fish is the laziest muscle of them all.

"In contrast， those muscles that are more active in a tuna， say the ones in its fins and tails， are a bit more chewier than other muscles，" he says.

Under a microscope， fish， chicken and other meat muscles look similar， with long， parallel fibers， like ropes， stretched out and tied together.

But when you zoom in a little closer好利来 丝袜， the fish muscles look like the Kate Moss of the bunch: Their fibers are slimmer， shorter and more delicate than the others.

The muscle properties of fish also explain the rainbow of colors you see at a sushi bar.

"Fish that are constantly on the move — say， a tuna — have muscles that are always working and burning carbohydrates aerobically，" Mouritsen says.

The muscles need oxygen to make energy. And the molecule that carries oxygen to muscle contains iron. Guess what color iron is in the fish? Red.

In contrast， fish that mostly hang out in one place or on the bottom of the ocean — say， for instance， flounder — have muscles that don't rely on oxygen to create energy. No oxygen means no iron to carry it， which means the muscles tend to be white. (Of course， most fish have a mixture of these two type of muscles and thus can look red， white or pink.)

So what about the pinkish-orange color of salmon? That's a special case， Mouritsen says.

"The coloring is due to what salmon eat: shellfish that are enriched with a pigment that's related to carotene in carrots， called astaxanthin."

This pigment creates the characteristic bluish-gray or green color of raw shrimp and crabs. The molecule turns bright pink or orange when the salmon eats the shellfish or we cook it.

查看译文

生鱼片当今但是炙手可热。

洛杉矶新开了好多餐馆，专卖一种叫作念克鲁多（Crudo）的意式生鱼片。奥巴马总统上个月出访亚洲时辰，也抽空去了有名的数寄屋桥次郎寿司店回味生鱼片寿司。而在客岁十二月，Nakawaza寿司店被《纽约时报》评为年度最好餐馆。

但为什么咱们一方濒临生鲜海产物趋之若鹜，一方面又认为生禽肉、生牛肉或生猪肉难以下咽呢？

生物物理学家奥利·莫里特森（Ole Mouritsen）说，一个很伏击的原因即是重力——概况说重力在海里的作用聊胜于无。他写过一册书，叫作念《寿司：养眼、充饥又小心的食品》。

“鱼类绝顶柔嫩，你不错用手指直穿它们的肌肉，”他说：“你再拿块鸡肉概况牛肉试试，笃定不成。鱼类的肌肉和陆地动物的肌肉有很大不同。”

为什么呢？因为鱼类的活命比陆地动物“更慵懒”。鱼类一直王人浮在水中，是以它们的肌肉无谓永恒招架重力作用。

莫里特森说：“鱼类无谓承受自体魄重，是以它们的肌肉纤维比起陆地动物愈加纤细，也没那么壮健有劲。”用于相连肌肉的结缔组织一样柔嫩无力。

这么的特色导致了什么遵循？生鱼肉如丝般顺滑，而熟鱼肉渺小晶莹。

莫里特森说，比拟之下，“陆地动物——比如咱们东谈主类——需要一直保握直立的姿态。”是以咱们的肌肉纤维更密集、更壮健、更踏实。

因此，陆地动物的肉在没煮熟的情况下韧性大、难咀嚼——而且滋味也不好。烹调不错软化肉中的结缔组织，何况改善肉质（还不错使肉变得多汁隽永）。

莫里特森在其书中写谈，总体来讲，肌肉越用越壮健，越用越鬈曲。这就诠释了为什么金枪鱼的肚子——也即是鱼腩——超乎寻常的柔嫩。金枪鱼肚子上的肌肉是全身行径量最少的肌肉。

他说：“比拟之下，金枪鱼身上更常用的肌肉，比如鱼鳍和鱼尾上的肌肉，就比其他部位的肌肉更有嚼劲。”

在显微镜下不雅察的话，你会发现鱼类、禽类和其他肉类的肌肉看起来差未几，王人有长长的平行纤维，像绳索一样牢牢绕在一谈。

但要是再放大看的话，鱼类的肌肉看起来就像肌肉界的凯特·摩斯（英国超等模特）：比其他肌肉更纤细、更短小、更柔弱。

鱼类肌肉的这些秉性也诠释了为何寿司里的鱼肉看起来五颜六色。

莫里特森说：“一直游动的鱼——比如说金枪鱼——它的部分肌肉一直在行径，通过有氧畅通糟践碳水化合物。”

肌肉需要氧气来制造能量，而致密运送氧气到肌肉里的小分子载体含有铁元素。猜猜铁元素在鱼肉里呈什么颜料？红色。

相对而言，像比目鱼这种不四处游动或只呆在海底的鱼，它们的部分肌肉不需要氧气来制造能量。莫得氧气也就意味着莫得铁元素，也即是说这些肌肉呈白色。（固然，大大批鱼类具有两种肌肉，因此有的肌肉呈红色，有的呈白色或粉红色。）

那鲑鱼肉的颜料为什么又粉又橙呢？莫里特森说，这是特例。

“鲑鱼肉的颜料取决于鲑鱼吃什么：鲑鱼吃的甲壳类动物富含一种叫作念虾青素的色素，这种色素和胡萝卜里的胡萝卜素有一定有关。”

虾青素让生虾肉或生蟹肉呈蓝灰色或绿色。当贝壳类动物被鲑鱼吃掉或经由咱们烹调后，其体内的小分子就会变为亮粉色或橙色。

（译者 Leedish 剪辑 丹妮）

狼国成人

扫一扫，暖热微博微信

好利来 丝袜